Chimney Repair
Chimney Masonry Repair in Medford, NY
Repointing, crown repair, flashing and full rebuilds. This is the masonry side of a chimney: the brick, the mortar and the waterproofing.
What we don’t do: flue sweeping, lining, relining, or appliance work. That’s a different trade with a different certification and you want someone who does only that. If your problem is inside the flue we’ll tell you and point you elsewhere rather than take the job.
Chimneys fail from water, and Long Island gives them plenty
A chimney is the most exposed masonry on the house. It’s got weather on all four sides, no roof over it, and a temperature differential running through the middle. On Long Island it also gets a freeze-thaw winter and, closer to the coast, salt in the air.
Every common chimney fault traces back to water getting into the masonry and then freezing.
Failed crown. The crown is the concrete cap on top. When it cracks, and thin, badly formed crowns crack early, water runs straight down inside the brickwork. This is the single most common cause of chimney deterioration and it’s the cheapest thing to fix if you catch it.
Open mortar joints. Mortar is sacrificial; it’s meant to wear before the brick does. Once joints are recessed, soft or missing, water gets behind the face.
Spalling brick. Faces popping off. That’s water that got in, froze, and pushed the face away. Spalled brick can’t be repaired. It gets cut out and replaced.
Failed flashing. Where the chimney meets the roof. Bad flashing shows up as a ceiling stain rather than a chimney problem, so it often gets diagnosed as a roof leak.
White staining. Efflorescence: salts carried out of the masonry by water moving through it. Cosmetic in itself, but it’s a symptom telling you water is inside.
What we do
Repointing. Old mortar cut out to depth and replaced. The mortar mix is matched to the existing masonry, not to whatever’s in the mixer: on older brick a mortar that’s too hard is actively damaging, because it forces the brick to take movement the joint should absorb.
Crown rebuilds. A proper crown is cast with an overhang and a drip edge so water leaves the chimney instead of running down the face. Most failed crowns we replace were flat, thin, and finished flush with the brick.
Brick replacement. Spalled and damaged units cut out and matched as closely as available brick allows.
Flashing. Step and counter-flashing at the roof line, properly let into the masonry.
Waterproofing. A breathable masonry sealer where it’s appropriate. Note the word breathable: a film-forming sealer traps moisture inside the brick and accelerates exactly the damage it’s supposed to prevent.
Rebuilds. Where deterioration runs below the roof line, partial or full rebuild from a sound course.
Chimneys in Medford housing stock
Most Medford chimneys are on post-war and later houses, which means they’re now between forty and seventy-five years old. That is precisely the age at which original mortar reaches the end of its service life.
The pattern we see most often: a chimney that’s been fine for decades, one bad winter, and suddenly there’s staining on the bedroom ceiling. Nothing changed except that the mortar finally opened enough for water to get through.
If your chimney hasn’t been looked at and the house is that age, it’s worth an inspection before it becomes an interior repair.
Getting it looked at
We’ll come out, get eyes on it, and tell you what we see. If the answer is that it’ll hold another five years, that’s what we’ll say: chimney work is easy to oversell and we’d rather have the job when it’s actually needed.
If there’s already staining inside the house, don’t wait for spring. Water in masonry over a freeze-thaw winter does more damage in three months than the previous three years.
ICPI certified, A+ with the BBB.
Frequently asked questions
Do you sweep chimneys?
No. We do the masonry: brick, mortar, crown, flashing. Flue sweeping, lining and appliance work are a separate trade and we’ll refer you rather than attempt it.
How do I know if it’s the chimney or the roof?
Often you don’t from inside, because failed flashing and a failed crown produce the same ceiling stain. That’s why we look at it rather than diagnose it over the phone.
How long does repointing take?
A typical residential chimney is one to two days depending on access and how much has to come out. Full rebuilds are longer.
Will the new mortar match?
New mortar is always brighter than sixty-year-old mortar. It weathers in over a season or two. We can tint to get closer, and on a partial repoint that’s usually worth doing.
Do I need scaffolding?
Depends on the roof pitch and the chimney height. We’ll tell you at the estimate. It’s a real cost line and it should be in the quote, not added later.
What does it cost?
It depends on whether it is repointing, crown repair or a rebuild, and what the access costs. The estimate is free and on site, which is the only way to give you a figure for your property rather than a range that fits everyone. Book one and we will price it in front of you, or call (631) 245-9273 to talk it through first.